The pristine, protected waters of southwest BC are home, I’m told, to octopi “smart as cats and just as shy,” as well as bright orange anemones and other surprising creatures. So this region has great diving (in frigid waters). The best areas are in Howe Sound: various spots between Atkinson Point and Whytcliffe Park, around islands such as Bowen and Gambier, and up to Porteau Cove, on the road to Squamish. Porteau boasts a sunken steam tug and World War II minesweeper.
At the other end of Burrard Inlet, two former us naval vessels were deliberately sunk for the pleasure of divers. They lie on the bed of Indian Arm off Belcarra Regional Park, east of Vancouver. A dozen other diving spots, most accessible only by boat, run up Indian Arm to sheer-faced Rockfish Wall and Crocker Island, near the mouth of the inlet.
Rowand’s Reef Scuba Shop (1512 Duranleau Street, Granville Island, 604-669-3483) sells and rents equipment, and claims to be the only free-diving (i.e., hold your breath) operation in Vancouver. It takes divers out locally and to the northern end of Vancouver Island — the number-two dive site in the world, according to a us dive magazine.
BC Dive Adventures (228 West Esplanade Street, North Vancouver, 604-983-2232, www.bcdive.com) includes a trip to the Helcket Wall off Gambier Island in Howe Sound in its program. Here, apparently, you’ll find tube and cloud sponges so big you can’t wrap your arms around them. The Diving Locker (2745 West 4th Avenue, Kitsilano, 604-736-2681) also employs certified guides who take novices on local dives.
High Output Water Sports operates out of The Boardroom (1745 West 4th Avenue, Kitsilano, 604-734-7547) and rents and sells a van-ety of water-related boards. Children might want to check out The Everything Wet Store in the Kids Market (1496 Cantwnight Street, Granville Island, 604-685-5445) for wetsuits, life jackets, snorkels, goggles, masks, and umbrellas.
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