Of course, Vancouver loves its conventional ice cream, and you can find excellent examples at several chocolate and ice cream shops along Robson Street, including Cows (1301 Robson Street, Downtown, 604-682-2622). But Italian-style gelato has captured this city’s heart. On a warm summer evening, it’s not unusual to see a long lineup outside Mondo Gelato (1094 Denman Street, West End, 604-647-6638; and 1222 Robson Street, Downtown, 604-694-0108), or Mum’s (2028 Vine Street, Kitsilano, 604-738-6867; also 849 Denman Street, West End, 604-681-1500).
Mondo is relatively new, and delivers fifty or sixty flavors of a variety of frozen desserts, including sorbet, soy, and yogurt. Mum’s has been on Denman for almost two decades, producing its own sorbeto, gelato, and frozen yogurt. (It’s also known for its Italian coffee, served in big bowl-cups.)
And then there’s Mario’s Gelati (www.mariosgelati.com). Mario LoScerbo’s story began at his grandfather’s ice cream parlor in the town of Amato in southern Italy. Mario emigrated in 1962 and built a small factory in East Vancouver. In 1998, he opened a modern glass-façade factory on industrial East Ist Avenue, just south of Science World, replete with a ballroom on the top floor (ideal for Italian weddings).
I won’t (or can’t) tell you how many pints of Mario’s hazelnut or tiramisu ice cream I’ve downed over the years. But I will say it’s smooth and luscious, as are my favorite sorbets — raspberry, black-berry, and lemon. Mario’s produces dozens of flavors, including oddballs like Stilton and green tea. You can consume or take away these and other desserts, including soy-based Tofulati, at the street-level café, Amato Gelato (88 East 1st Avenue, Central Vancouver, 604-897-90”).
For those who insist on staggering variety, make your way to the oddly located La Casa Gelato (1033 Venables Street, East Vancouver, 604-251-3211, www.lacasagelato.com). La Casa boasts almost 200 ice cream, gelati (“je-lah-tee”), sorbetti, and yogurt “sensations.” “Every¬thing we got here,” says indomitable owner Vince Maceo.
Suitably close to the beach sits Paradiso Italian Gelato (1520 Yew Street, Kitsilano, 604-738-4788). Everything here is made on the site from scratch, including a crème caramel, and orange, carrot, and lemon sorbetti.
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