Indulgences in Vancouver

At Morton’s Steak House (750 West Cordova Street, Downtown, 604-915-5105), the consumption of huge, gorgeous cuts of beef or oversized shrimps is a way of life. Of course, you have to be able to afford it, and the prices can make your eyes bulge (or ears swell — serving staff do an astounding menu presentation). But cut into that filet diane or New York steak and you’ll understand what it’s about: everything about this place is hedonistic, from the service through the desserts. I mean, Godiva hot chocolate cake?
For a pre-dinner aperitif in a plush room where everyone but you (no, I should speak for myself) will appear to be famous, rich, or just ultra-fashionable, make for the Bacchus Lounge in the Wedgewood Hotel (845 Hornby Street, Downtown, 604-608-5319). A glass of wine costs as much as I pay for a bottle, but what the heck. And there’s a room for cigar smokers at back, I’m told.
The biggest culinary name in town of recent years has been Rob Fennie, whose Lumiere (2551 West Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-8185) keeps topping the “best” lists — for all-round restaurant, new high-end, classic martinis, French, and so on. Lucky for those on freelance incomes that Fennie had the sense to open an adjacent Lumiere Tasting Bar, where you can sample his modernist dishes, along with a glass of wine or a martini, without chalking up too much more debt.
Chasing Lumiere in the upscale-eateries popularity stakes is West (2881 Granville Street, Central Vancouver, 604-738-8938). A recent national newspaper article concentrated on a single West dish — a raspberry soufflé from pastry chef Thierry Busset. The restaurant reportedly brings a farm-to-table approach to all its dishes.
Looking for a made-to-measure Italian-leather jacket — neatly fitted or bomber-style — in a forest green or soft maroon? Ocean Drive (1026 Mainland Street, Yaletown, 604-647-2244), favored by the film crowd, makes its garments on the premises and ships anywhere in the world that you and your credit card desire.
For accommodation, don’t think you can do much better than a northwestward-looking room at the Pan Pacific Hotel (999 Canada Place, Downtown, 604-662-81111).
I’ll cap this with the ultimate indulgence an evening of sweets from the Chocolate Bar at the Sutton Place Hotel’s Fleuri Restaurant (845 Burrard Street, Downtown, 604-642-2900; call ahead for times and booking). Embracing everything from crêpes to frozen desserts and fancy cakes, the event can be enjoyed after dinner, or as a momentous meal in itself.


 

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